Generous and I visited “deep” Nagano — an area where tourists don’t go and there’s no English. An eastern cord melody echoed down the street, letting the neighborhood know of the availability of baked sweet potatoes. Up ahead, a red lantern followed behind a cart being pulled by bicycle, the source of the music.

We came to an izakaya (Japanese pub) run by a friendly husband and wife duo. They and their other patrons were excited to hear that I was visiting from San Francisco. They remarked that I must find it cold for me in Nagano. I said I like it.

We ordered the baked chicken gyoza, at the recommendation of one of the other patrons. We were both surprised when what looked like regular chicken wings came out, but when we bit in we discovered they had somehow put the gyoza filling under the skin. Next, we ordered the bamboo shoot boiled with soy sauce and thin slices of pork interleaved in the layers of the bamboo. The croquettes were made of potato salad. Rounded it out with a nice bowl of spicy pickled wasabi stems and flowers, paired with a vase of warm sake. I forgot to take photos, so you’ll have to use your imagination. I think this might be my favorite meal I’ve ever had in Japan. Thank you Generous for being my guide!