It was after my bedtime in local time, but I’d just arrived so I decided to go explore a bit. I come to a tall, flashy, illuminated structure. No, not Skytree, but Don Quioxote. A marque outside reads “Amusement discount shop.” Inside is like Trader Joe’s crossed with Wal-Mart crossed with a study of human sensory overload. So I go in because I realize I need a few things. Equipped and amused, I started to wander around. The rest of the neighborhood is quiet. Most businesses are closed. People seem to be heading home. I walk by a tiny bar with a few patrons inside. Then I stumble upon Senso-ji, a Buddhist temple in heart of Asakusa.

I wandered around a bit, the tranquility of the temple grounds giving me whiplash from having been in Don Quioxote minutes ago. A group of people go up and face the doors (above) stand shoulder to should, clap twice then bow.

I walk around a bit more, kinda feeling like I’m in a dream. The street suddenly transitions into the thoroughfare of an outdoor shopping mall. All the stalls are closed. Okay, you’re right, I should go get some sleep, I thought as I came upon an imploring figure. I went back to the ryokan and zonked out.

Thursday

I set out to find some breakfast along Kappabashi-dori, a street that a guide book said was a culinary scene, but nothing was open yet, so I go back to 7-11 Kappabashi, why do you taunt me so?

This street is associated with a kappa said to have assisted with the construction of rainwater management infrastructure that prevents Kappabashi from flooding during the rainy season. Here’s an artist’s rendition of the kappa And another interepretation:

For lunch, I went to a ramen shop I found on Tabelog called Min Mitsui. I had the Shyou with pork belly, lotus, bamboo shoot, and a marinated egg. Oishii For dinner, I met up with someone for conveyor belt sushi in Kawaguchi, Saitama. I had only met her via video call before, via some mutual friends. From Japan, she went to high school and college in the states, and now lives in Kawaguchi and runs an English language school while raising her daughter. We talked about what we like about each others' birth country, the foods, the media, the lifestyles and less tangible assets. Maybe it’s a grass is always greener thing, but she did live in my country for several years, while I’ve only been to her country for several weeks. It was good to hear a locals perspective on this place, it reminded me that I’m privileged to be able to travel like this.

Side note: the trip from central Tokyo to Saitama, a whole different prefecture, cost less than $5 US.

Back at the hotel, I started to fall asleep but then rallied to go out. I wound up at a beer bar called Beerzilla run by some English folks. I got some intel on nightlife, there’s a fun ninja themed bar near Asakusa station. True to its theme, that place completely eluded me. I wound up in a bar playing old American vinyl. A couple of older Japanese men at the bar, tended to by a more senior Japanese man. They welcomed me to the bar and I had a beer. Fortunately the man next to me could speak English well, so he served as my translator. They were pleased to learn that I was American. The bartender asked me what I think about Trump with a mischievous grin. I’m just like “yeah…” and we laugh. They were a jovial bunch. They asked me where I’m staying. I said it’s a ryokan and then give the name. They laugh because it’s actually not a true ryokan because they don’t have an onsen or serve breakfast. They’re like that’s just a hotel. I knew it was lacking some of the features of other ryokan, but apparently those are essential features. My “ryokan” does have tatami mats, that’s gotta count for something.

Q & A

How long will I be in Japan?

Until I leave on the 3rd of March, unless I opt to change my flight.

What level is my Japanese?

I can string a few useful words together and understand some key words, but once it goes beyond a toddler’s Japanese, I’m lost. Will be interesting to see if I can noticeably improve in a month…

What’s my itinerary?

I’ve sketched out an itinerary that will take me from Tokyo to Nagano, possibly stopping for a few hours at Nikko on the way. After that, it’s Kanazawa, Osaka, and back to Tokyo. I’ll probably make some day trips Kanazawa and Osaka to nearby cities and points of interest.